When we first thought of visiting Indonesia again, we didn’t want the usual Bali crowds.
We wanted raw nature, authentic culture, and untouched islands. That’s how we ended up choosing Central Sulawesi, one of Indonesia’s least visited regions—and what an adventure it turned out to be!
In this Central Sulawesi itinerary, I’ll guide you through pristine beaches, local villages, and secret waterfalls so you can experience the magic of this underrated part of the world.
Where is Sulawesi?
Sulawesi, one of Indonesia’s five main islands, sits neatly between Borneo and the Maluku Islands. Known for its unique K-shape, it boasts rich biodiversity, stunning coastlines, and ancient cultures.
In this itinerary, we’ll focus on Central Sulawesi — especially the Banggai Regency, a stunning region still unknown to most travellers.
How to Get to Central Sulawesi?
Getting there requires a few connections, but trust me, it’s worth it.
- Flight Path: London ➔ Singapore ➔ Makassar ➔ Luwuk
- Airlines: British Airways, Scoot, and Batik Air.
Top Tip: Book multi-city tickets using Trip.com in advance to save time and money.
Budget for a Trip to Central Sulawesi
Here’s a realistic budget breakdown based on my own expenses:
- Flights: £954.97
- Food: Expect to spend around 50,000 IDR (£2.60) per meal, or £5.20/day for two meals.
(Nasi Goreng: 15,000–25,000 IDR or £0.80–£1.30) - Hotels: 150,000–500,000 IDR per night (£8–£26), often including breakfast.
- Transport:
- Private driver (long distances): 1,000,000 IDR (~£52)
- Motorcycle rental: 100,000–180,000 IDR/day (£5.20–£9.30)
- Petrol: 10,000–15,000 IDR/litre (£0.52–£0.80)
- Private driver (long distances): 1,000,000 IDR (~£52)
- Public Ferries:
- Luwuk–Leme Leme: 54,000 IDR (£2.80)
- Salakan–Luwuk: 70,000 IDR (£3.60)
- Luwuk–Leme Leme: 54,000 IDR (£2.80)
7-Day Central Sulawesi and Banggai Banggai islands Itinerary
Day 1: Luwuk to Poganda Beach
Grab a plane from Makassar to Luwuk Airport at 11 AM. Then, get a taxi (around 100,000 IDR / £5) to Pelabuhan Rakyat Banggai — not Luwuk Port! You will find many taxi drivers when exiting the airport.
After that, catch the ferry to Leme Leme (ticket: 54,000 IDR / £2.50). The boat leaves at 2 PM daily and the journey lasts around 2.5 hours.
Pro tip: sit near the front to avoid engine fumes!
After arriving, head to Caffe Badi Punti for a delicious Ayam Gebrek (20,000 IDR / £0.93). You can rent a scooter from Rizal, think about pre-booking via WhatsApp (+62 852-8246-2300) for 120,000 IDR/day (£5.50).
Finally, ride 30 minutes to Poganda Beach and check into Azzahra Cottage (300,000 IDR / £14). The place is basic but charming — a real local experience! To book the cottage, contact Nissa on WhatsApp (+62 812-4270-9909)
🌟 Tip: Arrange dinner with Pendi (60,000 IDR / £2.80) via WhatsApp (+62 812-4576-1321).
Important: Only rent a scooter if you are confident driving on tricky, sometimes challenging roads!
Day 2: Paisu Pok Luk and Surroundings
Rise early and head to Paisu Pok Luk for a real-life AI-looking turquoise lake.
If visiting on a weekend, arrive at 7 AM to enjoy the lake crowd-free!
- Entrance Fee: 5,000 IDR (£0.25)
- Gazebo Rental: 30,000 IDR (£1.40)
- Boat Rental: 30,000 IDR (£1.40)
- Paddleboard Rental: 25,000 IDR (£1.15)
Breakfast options at the entrance: filled Indonesian waffles (15,000 IDR / £0.70) or local rice/noodle dishes at the lake (10,000 IDR / £0.47).
Continue your journey toward Kawalu and make a stop at the beautiful Paisu Botango Spring Bath. Be mindful of locals using it for bathing, so respect their privacy.
Return to Poganda Beach for snorkelling and relaxing before driving back to Leme Leme to switch from scooter to a private driver. Trust me, the road to Salakan is tough — better safe than sorry!
Spend the night at Penginapan Novpitri (150,000 IDR / £7) in Leme Leme.
Day 3: Leme Leme to Salakan
Today’s a scenic journey! With your driver (1,200,000 IDR / £55), stop at:
- Gua Susundeng: A mystical cave with intricate limestone formations.
- Gua Bab’Banang: Another natural wonder with hidden chambers.
- Teduang Beach: Entrance 10,000 IDR (£0.50) — only worth visiting if you want a drone shot of the heart-shaped reef.
Once arrived at Salakan, check into Wisma Sidapore Teluk Bayur (TB) (375,000 IDR / £17), breakfast included.
Ask for a room at the back to avoid road noise, and negotiate discounts if staying multiple nights.
Scooter rental is easy to arrange through the hotel for 150,000 IDR (£7).
Dinner Options:
- Waroeng Pang5 (Nasi Goreng)
- Waroeng Jowo (Mie Ayam & Bakso)
- Rumah Makan Sama (Seafood)
- Kopi Arobi Salakan (Cafe)
Day 4: Beaches Escape – Mandel Beach and Pompon Beach
Today is all about chasing beaches and a bit of adventure. Thanks to the great road conditions around Salakan, the drive itself is easy and scenic — a perfect start to the day.
First, head to Mandel Beach, the furthest beach on today’s route. The moment you arrive, you’ll be blown away by the endless stretch of white sand and vivid blue waters.
However, we were saddened to see quite a bit of plastic waste washed up along the shore. It’s still a breathtaking spot, but it’s a strong reminder of how important it is to protect these hidden gems.
After enjoying Mandel, continue to Pompon Beach for a more relaxed afternoon.
Here, the entrance is just 2,000 IDR (£0.10), and you can rent your own beachfront gazebo for 25,000 IDR (£1.30) — ideal for a lazy lunch or reading break.
Don’t miss the secret highlight: ask the locals about the speedboat trip to Pulo Tambun (100,000 IDR / £5.20). This little island is a slice of untouched paradise, only reachable by sea and well worth the short ride.
Spend the rest of the day swimming, relaxing, and soaking up the peaceful vibe before heading back.
Day 5: Salakan Sunrise Adventures and Ferry to Luwuk
Today is your last day on Peleng Island — and trust me, it’s worth setting an early alarm for it.
Start your morning before sunrise and head straight to Pasar Ikan Salakan, the buzzing local fish market.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Why wake up at 5 AM on holiday?” But here in Indonesia, life starts early. The market at dawn is a real immersion into local culture, with fishermen unloading the fresh catch of the day and vendors selling rice, fruits, and homemade delicacies like nasi kelapa cake and pandan pancakes. Honestly, it was one of the most authentic experiences we had!
Meet with the Bajau people
After soaking in the lively market atmosphere, wander down to the Bajau village.
The Bajau — often called the “sea gypsies” of Indonesia — are a traditionally nomadic, ocean-dwelling community known for their incredible free-diving and fishing skills.
Their wooden stilt houses float above the turquoise waters, and the people will welcome you with open arms, bright smiles, and likely a dozen photo requests!
If you’re lucky, like we were, you might even be invited on an impromptu boat ride around the bay. Just make sure you’re wearing sunblock because we’ve got a full hour under the blasting sun — and don’t forget, it’s always kind to tip your guide if you can.
Take the ferry back so Salakan
Around midday, head back towards Salakan Port.
Grab your ferry ticket early — the ticket office opens at 8 AM. The ferry back to Luwuk costs 70,000 IDR (£3.25) per person, or, if you value your privacy (and a nap!), pay an extra 75,000 IDR (£3.50) for a private room — highly recommended after a morning packed with adventure!
Before boarding, take a breather at Kopi Arobi Salakan, a cozy café a few minutes’ walk from the pier. Their indoor air-conditioned room was a lifesaver for us while waiting for the boat.
The ferry ride lasts around 3 hours. If you stand on deck before departure, you’ll witness a fun local tradition: kids diving off the ferry in hopes you’ll toss notes into the water. It’s one of those heartwarming memories you’ll never forget — but always be respectful and avoid encouraging unsafe practices.
Welcome to Luwuk
Upon arriving in Luwuk, head straight to the Swiss-Belinn Luwuk, a comfortable hotel perfect for recharging after your adventure.
Once you check in, arrange your motorbike rental at the reception (150,000 IDR / £7 per day) — you’ll need it for the waterfall day trip coming up!
Finish the day with a delicious grilled fish dinner at Luwuk Seafood Kilo 5, a local favourite for fresh “ikan bakar” that will make you want to lick your fingers.
Day 6: Chasing Waterfalls around Luwuk
Today is all about nature and adventure, so make sure you set off early—around 8 AM—to make the most of your day. Get ready to chase some of Luwuk’s most beautiful waterfalls!
Air Terjun Salodik
Start with Air Terjun Salodik, about a 50-minute drive from Swiss-Belinn Luwuk. Entrance costs 15,000 IDR (£0.70), and you’ll find plenty of shady gazebos for rent (30,000 IDR / £1.40) and even playgrounds for families. It’s super easy to access, which makes it popular with locals, especially on weekends. During my visit, the water was brown—likely due to recent rain—so it’s worth managing your expectations!
Air Terjun Kamumu
Just ten minutes away from Salodik, Air Terjun Kamumu is a more hidden gem. Entrance is free, but getting there feels like a mini-adventure: you’ll need to spot two tall pillars by the roadside, then take a dirt path down behind a small house with a Catholic sign on the door. After a 15-minute slippery descent (especially if it has rained), you’ll reach the waterfall. When we visited after rain, it was extremely muddy—I practically slid down on my backside! Hiking shoes and water are a must.
Piala Waterfall
Next, head to Piala Waterfall, my absolute favorite of the day! Entry costs just 10,000 IDR (£0.47), and after an easy 10-minute walk, you’ll find an idyllic spot to swim. It wasn’t crowded at midday, and the turquoise water made it perfect for a refreshing dip. Some locals even keep an eye on your motorbike, though honestly, this felt like one of the safest spots in Indonesia.
Air Terjun Laumarang
Very close to Piala, you’ll find Air Terjun Laumarang. It’s completely free to visit and, to our delight, we were the only ones there. The path down is a little more challenging, but the reward of having a serene waterfall to yourself is absolutely worth the effort.
Air Terjun Dendengan
If you still have some energy left, drive another 30 minutes to reach Air Terjun Dendengan. Entrance is free, and the waterfall is just as beautiful as Piala. It’s definitely worth the extra drive if you’re in full explorer mode!
After a long and fulfilling day hopping between waterfalls, head back to the hotel to rest for a bit. Later, treat yourself to a well-deserved massage at Santigi Relaxing Center & Barbershop—you’ll thank me for it.
For dinner, I recommend Rumah Makan Surabaya for fresh shrimp dishes or grilled fish. But before that, make a detour to Café Bukit Kasih Sayang to catch the sunset over Luwuk—it’s truly magical. If you prefer a spot closer to the hotel, KOPSAL (Kopi Saluan) is a cozy option too.
Day 7: Return to Makassar
Sadly, all good things must come to an end. It’s time to leave Banggai behind and make your way back to civilisation!
If you flew into Luwuk, catch a flight back to Makassar—the vibrant capital of Sulawesi and Indonesia’s fifth-largest city.
If you have some extra time before heading home, why not make the most of it? I highly recommend checking out my guide on Top Things to Do in Makassar (COMING SOON) for a few final adventures!
Want to Explore Banggai Islands for Longer?
If you’re lucky enough to have more days to spend in Banggai, I highly encourage you to keep the adventure going!
From Day 5 of this itinerary, you could make your way to Banggai Laut. To do so, head to Tobing Harbour, about 1 hour’s drive from Salakan, and hop on a boat (make sure you arrive before 5 PM).
Banggai Laut is a hidden paradise, and although we decided to save it for a future trip, here are a few incredible spots you should definitely add to your list:
Where to Stay in Banggai Laut:, Central Sulawesi
- Kia Home Stay
- Bakakan – Banggai Cardinal Fish Cottages
- Hotel Banggai
- Batara Guest House
Ideally, plan for at least three nights in Banggai Laut to fully enjoy its charm.
Alternatively, if you’re short on time, you could also book a day excursion from Salakan to visit the main spots—although it would cost around 1,600,000 IDR (£82) including transfers back and forth.
Got Another 2 Days to Explore Even Further?
If you find yourself with extra days and you’re traveling during the dry season (November to February), you could push your adventure even further by visiting Mbuang-Mbuang from Banggai Laut.
This off-the-grid paradise is reachable only by speedboat, costing around 4,000,000 IDR (£205).
It’s pricey, yes, but the untouched landscapes are absolutely breathtaking—and absolutely worth it.
Highlights on Mbuang-Mbuang Island Central Sulawesi:
- Liang Tadul (spectacular limestone caves)
- Paisu Batongan Jellyfish Lake (a magical place to swim with non-stinging jellyfish!)
Where to Stay:
- Homestay Warga Mbuang Mbuang
- Home Stay Mbuang-Mbuang
Since this area is extremely remote, I recommend hiring a local guide to coordinate your stay, arrange meals, and help with speedboat transfers.
Unless you speak fluent Bahasa, it’s the best way to ensure a smooth, enjoyable experience!
Best Time to Visit Banggai Islands
We travelled in April, for the very best weather conditions, plan your trip during the dry season, from April to October.
During our stay, we had a few rainy nights and missed a few sunsets, but honestly, it didn’t take away from the magic of the experience.
One important thing to note: avoid travelling during Ramadan and Eid.
We arrived at the end of Ramadan, and for several days, restaurants were closed, making it challenging to find meals. Plus, Indonesian school holidays follow Eid, meaning accommodations fill up fast and popular spots like Paisu Pok become much busier during the day.
Know Before You Go
Before you embark on your Banggai adventure, there are a few things you should know:
- Expect to Be a Star: As one of Indonesia’s least-visited regions by foreigners, Banggai locals are incredibly curious. You’ll often hear people calling out “Bule!” (foreigner) and asking for photos.
While it might feel overwhelming at first, it’s part of the experience—embrace it with a smile, and you’ll be rewarded with some truly heartwarming interactions! - Language Barrier: English is rarely spoken. Learn a few basic words in Bahasa (hello, please, thank you, numbers) and download Google Translate for smooth communication.
- Connectivity: Internet can be patchy. Wifi is mostly available in hotels, so make sure to download Google Maps offline before you arrive.
- Cultural Sensitivity: Indonesia is predominantly Muslim (outside of Bali). You don’t have to cover your head, but dressing modestly is appreciated.
When swimming, note that locals often swim fully clothed. It’s fine to wear a two-piece, but expect a few curious stares.
What to Pack for your Banggai Islands adventure
Make sure you pack wisely for this remote adventure! Here’s a checklist:
- Mosquito repellent
- Lightweight towel
- Soap bar
- Conditioner and shampoo
- Sunblock (reef-safe if possible!)
- Insulated water bottle
- Metal straw
- One-piece swimwear
- Hiking shoes
- Flip-flops
- Snorkeling mask
- Esim Holafly for better connectivity
Helpful Contacts for your Central Sulawesi itinerary
- Drivers:
- Luwuk: Zulham (+62 823-4821-7561)
- Banggai: Anto (+62 822-7855-7858)
- Luwuk: Zulham (+62 823-4821-7561)
- Guides:
- Luwuk: @ra_Salatun
- Banggai: @anto_scout_
- Luwuk: @ra_Salatun
- Motorcycle Rental (Leme Leme):
- Rizal (+62 852-8246-2300)
Final Thoughts
Exploring the Banggai islands has been one of the most authentic, humbling, and awe-inspiring trips I’ve ever taken.
Yes, it’s remote. Yes, it takes a little effort to get there.
But believe me, the reward is a part of Indonesia that still feels raw, untouched, and welcoming in every possible way.
If you’re craving an adventure beyond Bali’s tourist trail, Central Sulawesi and the Banggai Archipelago are waiting for you.
Now tell me—are you ready to leave the beaten path behind?
