Montenegro in a nutshell: Montenegro is a small Balkan country on the Adriatic where you can go from glacial mountain lakes to medieval sea towns in a single afternoon’s drive. One week is enough to see the highlights if you hire a car: 2 nights in Durmitor National Park, 2 nights on the Bay of Kotor and 3 nights in Budva, with day trips to Lovćen, Cetinje and Lake Skadar. It uses the euro, it’s very easy to drive, and the best months to visit are May, June and September.
This Montenegro itinerary comes from my two trips there: first in August with a road trip through the mountains, then again in September to slow down on the coast. Both times I left wondering why more people don’t talk about it. Within a few hours you can swim in the Adriatic, eat smoked ham in a mountain village, stand above the deepest canyon in Europe and watch the sun set behind a fortified island.
This 7-day Montenegro itinerary combines the best of both trips into one road trip: the wild north, the Bay of Kotor, the Lovćen mountains, Lake Skadar and the Budva Riviera. I’ve included exactly where to stay, where to eat and the viewpoints you really shouldn’t miss.
Montenegro Itinerary at a Glance
| Quick facts | |
|---|---|
| Airports | Podgorica (TGD) and Tivat (TIV). Dubrovnik in Croatia is about 1h30 from the Bay of Kotor |
| Currency | Euro (€), even though Montenegro isn’t in the EU |
| Getting around | Hire a car. Buses exist, but you’ll miss most viewpoints |
| Drive time coast to mountains | About 3 to 3.5 hours from the Bay of Kotor to Žabljak |
| Best time to visit | May, June and September |
| Where to stay | Žabljak (Durmitor), Perast (Bay of Kotor) and Budva |
| Ideal trip length | 7 days for the highlights, 10 if you want beach time |
My 7-day Montenegro itinerary at a glance
- Day 1: Podgorica → Ostrog Monastery → Žabljak
- Day 2: Durmitor National Park: Black Lake, Tara Bridge and the Durmitor Ring
- Day 3: Piva Canyon road → Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks
- Day 4: The Bay of Kotor: Kotor old town and a sunset on the water
- Day 5: Kotor Serpentine → Njeguši → Lovćen → Cetinje → Budva
- Day 6: Lake Skadar: Pavlova Strana and Rijeka Crnojevića
- Day 7: Budva old town, beaches and sunset over Sveti Stefan
Where to stay: 2 nights in Žabljak, 2 nights in Perast, 3 nights in Budva.
Day 1: Podgorica, Ostrog Monastery and the Drive to Žabljak
Fly into Podgorica, pick up your hire car and head straight north. If you land in the evening, spend your first night in the capital and stop by the Temple of Christ’s Resurrection, which is beautiful lit up at night.
Ostrog Monastery
On the way to the mountains, make a stop at Ostrog Monastery, one of the most dramatic places I’ve ever visited. The white monastery is built straight into a vertical cliff, and it’s the most important pilgrimage site in Montenegro.
- Entry: free (donations are welcome)
- Dress code: cover your shoulders and knees. Women may be asked to cover their heads, and scarves are usually available at the entrance.
- Photos: not allowed inside the cave chapels.
- My tip: go early or late in the day. Midday, especially at weekends, gets very busy.
From Ostrog, it’s roughly a two-hour drive through the mountains to Žabljak, the gateway town to Durmitor National Park. Stop for dinner at Krčma Nostalgija, a cosy local tavern in Žabljak with hearty mountain food.
Stay: 2 nights in Žabljak at Hotel Soa (see “Where to stay”).
Day 2: Durmitor National Park
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Start the day at Black Lake, the most famous lake in Durmitor National Park, surrounded by pine forest with the Međed peak reflected in the water. An easy 3.5 to 4 km loop takes you around the whole lake in about 1.5 to 2 hours, and the colour of the water changes from emerald to deep blue as you walk.
- National park entry: €5 per person per day, paid in cash on site or online in advance
- Parking: paid separately
Đurđevića Tara Bridge and the Zipline
Drive about 30 minutes to the Đurđevića Tara Bridge, which spans the Tara River Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe. Walking across the bridge is free, and the views down into the canyon are incredible.
If you’re feeling brave, do the zipline across the canyon next to the bridge. There are two lines, of about 824 m and 1,050 m, and it’s a real adrenaline rush.
No car? Join this Durmitor, Black Lake and Tara Canyon day tour from the coast.
The Durmitor Ring and Sedlo Pass
In the afternoon, drive part of the Durmitor Ring, a panoramic mountain road that loops through the park. It’s one of the most beautiful drives in the Balkans: wooden A-frame chalets, cows grazing by the road, and huge limestone peaks around every bend.
- Stop at Sedlo Pass, the starting point for the hike to Bobotov Kuk, Durmitor’s highest peak at 2,523 m. The full hike takes 6 to 7 hours return and needs a head for heights, so only attempt it if you’re an experienced hiker.
- Warm up with a cup at the Mountain Herbal Tea Bar, a tiny stop along the Durmitor Ring.
- If you have time, walk to Zminje Lake, a smaller and much quieter lake hidden in the forest.
Day 3: The Piva Canyon Road to Perast
Leave Žabljak and drive west over the mountains to Plužine and Piva Lake, a turquoise reservoir hemmed in by the cliffs of the Piva Canyon. It’s one of the most spectacular drives in Montenegro, with rough-cut tunnels through the rock. Stop at the Piva Canyon viewpoint near Plužine for the classic photo of the water winding between the cliffs, then follow the lake south towards Nikšić.
Continue to the coast and the Bay of Kotor. Allow about 3.5 to 4 hours of driving in total.
Perast
Spend the afternoon in Perast, my favourite village on the bay. It’s tiny, with Venetian palaces lining a single waterfront street and the bell tower of St Nicholas Church standing above it all.
Our Lady of the Rocks
From the Perast waterfront, hop on a small boat to Our Lady of the Rocks, a church built on an artificial island in the middle of the bay. The crossing only takes a few minutes. Agree the price with the boatman before you get in, and note that church entry is charged separately on the island.
Staying in Kotor instead? Book this Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks speedboat tour from Kotor.
For dinner, drive 15 minutes along the bay to Ćatovića Mlini in Morinj, a much-loved seafood restaurant set around old watermills and streams.
Stay: 2 nights in Perast at Heritage Grand Perast (see “Where to stay”).
Day 4: The Bay of Kotor
Kotor Old Town
Spend the morning exploring Kotor, a UNESCO-listed walled town tucked at the end of the bay. Get lost in the marble alleys, find St Nicholas Church and St Tryphon’s Cathedral, and say hello to the many cats that rule the old town.
If you have the energy, climb the city walls to the Fortress of St John for a view over the whole bay. Go early in the morning, because the climb is steep and there’s little shade.
Rose and the Luštica Peninsula
In the afternoon, cross to the Luštica peninsula and the tiny fishing village of Rose. It’s the kind of place where the only thing to do is swim off the stone pier, then sit with a coffee and watch the boats. Nearby beaches Žanjice, Mirište and Plavi Horizonti are perfect for a swim.
Sunset at the Kraken Underwater Wine Cellar
For sunset, book an evening at the Kraken Underwater Wine Cellar (open April to September), a covered floating raft in the bay where wine is aged around 20 metres under the sea. You reach it by boat, sip wine and nibble bruschetta while the mountains above the bay turn pink. It was one of my favourite evenings in Montenegro.
Finish the night back in Kotor, which is magical after dark when the day-trippers have gone and the alleys glow orange.
Day 5: Kotor Serpentine, Njeguši, Lovćen and Cetinje
The Kotor Serpentine or the Cable Car
Leave the bay on the Kotor Serpentine, a road with 25 hairpin bends that climbs straight up the mountain behind Kotor. Every bend gives you a better view over the bay, and it’s one of the most famous drives in the Balkans.
Not keen on hairpins? Take the Kotor–Lovćen cable car instead. It goes from just outside Kotor to the mountain in about 11 minutes, runs from spring to mid-October, and a return ticket costs around €23. At the top you’ll find Monte 1350, a restaurant with a view, an alpine coaster, and the thrilling Falcon Fly.
Njeguši
Continue to Njeguši, a small mountain village famous for its smoked ham (Njeguški pršut) and cheese. Order a platter of both at Konoba Batrićević, with a cold Nikšićko beer.
Mausoleum of Njegoš in Lovćen National Park
From Njeguši, drive up into Lovćen National Park to the Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, Montenegro’s poet-prince. The road ends in a car park, then you climb 461 steps through a tunnel in the mountain to reach the mausoleum. The two granite caryatids guarding the tomb are impressive. The real reward is the 360° view from the top, over almost the whole country and, on a clear day, all the way to the sea.
The entry costs €8 and they only take cash. There is an ATM at the place but to avoid the ATM fees, make sure you have some cash with you.
Cetinje
On the way down, stop in Cetinje, the old royal capital of Montenegro. It’s a quiet, leafy town with former embassies, the Cetinje Monastery and the Court Church on Ćipur.
Then drive about an hour down to Budva, your base for the next three nights.
Stay: 3 nights in Budva at Iberostar Waves Slavija, where I stayed.
Day 6: Lake Skadar, Pavlova Strana and Rijeka Crnojevića
Pavlova Strana Viewpoint
Drive inland to Lake Skadar National Park and stop at the Pavlova Strana viewpoint, the most famous view of the lake. The Crnojević River loops in a perfect horseshoe around a green mountain before flowing into the lake. Photos don’t do it justice.
Rijeka Crnojevića
Continue down to the riverside village of Rijeka Crnojevića, with its old stone bridge. Have lunch on a terrace by the water, then take a boat trip on the river towards the lake, through water lilies and reed beds.
Want to explore the lake itself? Book a wooden-boat tour of Lake Skadar from Virpazar, on the other side of the national park.
Sunset in Pržno
Back on the coast, head to Pržno, a small bay just south of Budva, for sunset. Book a table at Konoba More, right on the water. Its seafood platters are huge, and the view over the boats and rocks at golden hour is perfect.
Day 7: Budva Old Town, Beaches and Sveti Stefan
Budva Old Town
Spend the morning in Budva’s old town, which is much calmer before 11am. Wander the stone lanes, walk the citadel walls and stop for priganice, Montenegrin fried dough balls served with honey, at Priganice: A Bite of Montenegro.
My other favourite spots in Budva:
- Pera, Focaccia & Resto-Bar for lunch
- La Mia Pasta for fresh pasta to go
- Gelisse for gelato
- Citadela Restaurant for dinner with a view over the sea
- Casper Bar for drinks in the old town
Budva Beaches
Spend the afternoon on the beach. Mogren Beach is a short walk from the old town along a cliffside path. Drobni Pijesak is a quieter cove between Budva and Sveti Stefan.
Sunset over Sveti Stefan
For your last sunset, drive to the Sveti Stefan viewpoint next to St Sava Church, on the hill above the island. Sit on the stone wall and watch the sun go down behind the fortified island. It was the best sunset of my whole trip.
Alternative: drive 20 minutes south to Petrovac for sunset drinks at Castelo Terace, a terrace built on the old fortress walls above the sea.
Where to Stay in Montenegro
Žabljak (Durmitor): Hotel Soa
Hotel Soa is one of the best-rated hotels in Žabljak, within walking distance of the town and close to the Black Lake. It’s a great base for exploring Durmitor, with free parking and a restaurant on site.
Bay of Kotor: Heritage Grand Perast
Heritage Grand Perast (formerly the Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast) is a five-star hotel in a restored 18th-century palace right on the water in Perast. It has a spa with a hammam and stunning views across the bay. It’s the perfect place to wake up on the Bay of Kotor.
Check prices and availability for Heritage Grand Perast
Splurge option: The Chedi Luštica Bay is a luxury hotel in the marina on the Luštica peninsula, close to Rose, with a beautiful spa and sea views from most rooms.
Budva: Iberostar Waves Slavija
This is where I stayed, and I’d go back in a heartbeat. Iberostar Waves Slavija is a five-star hotel with whitewashed Mediterranean-style buildings, blue shutters and bougainvillea everywhere. It’s about a 5-minute walk to Slovenska Beach and 15 minutes along the promenade to the old town. There’s a spa, a seasonal outdoor pool and a rooftop terrace.
How to Get Around Montenegro
Hire a car. Montenegro is small, the roads are in good condition and the best viewpoints are all on mountain roads. Buses connect the main towns, but without a car you’ll miss Pavlova Strana, the Durmitor Ring, Lovćen and most of the places in this itinerary.
- Driving: you drive on the right. Mountain roads are narrow and twisty, so allow more time than your map app suggests.
- Fuel and parking: fill up before heading into the mountains, and expect to pay for parking in Kotor, Budva and the national parks.
- Crossing borders: if you want to add Dubrovnik or Albania, check that your hire company allows cross-border travel.
Best Time to Visit Montenegro
- May, June and September: my favourite months. It’s warm enough to swim, the mountains are green, and it’s much quieter than in summer. My September trip had perfect weather.
- July and August: hot and very busy on the coast, and prices go up. Book hotels a few months ahead.
- Mid-October to April: quiet and cheaper, but the Kotor cable car and many coastal restaurants close for the season, and mountain roads can be snowy.
Things to Know Before Visiting Montenegro
- Montenegro uses the euro, even though it isn’t in the EU.
- Check the entry rules before you go on the UK government’s FCDO travel advice page, and find more inspiration on the official Montenegro tourism website.
- Bring cash for national park fees, small konobas (family-run restaurants) and boatmen.
- Dress modestly in monasteries. Cover your shoulders and knees at Ostrog, Cetinje and in churches.
- Don’t underestimate drive times. Mountain roads are slow, and a 100 km drive can take two hours.
- Try the local food: Njeguški pršut (smoked ham), priganice, black risotto, fresh fish and a cold Nikšićko beer.
- Book the popular experiences ahead in summer, like the Kraken underwater wine cellar and boat trips on the bay.
FAQ
Is one week enough for Montenegro?
Yes. A one-week Montenegro itinerary is enough to see the highlights if you hire a car: Durmitor National Park, the Bay of Kotor, Lovćen, Lake Skadar and the Budva Riviera. With 10 days you could add more beach time and the Luštica peninsula.
Where should I stay in Montenegro for a week?
For this Montenegro itinerary, split your stay between three bases: Žabljak for Durmitor National Park (2 nights), Perast or Kotor for the Bay of Kotor (2 nights), and Budva for the coast, Lovćen and Lake Skadar (3 nights).
Do you need a car in Montenegro?
A car is strongly recommended. Many of the best viewpoints, like Pavlova Strana, the Kotor Serpentine and the Durmitor Ring, are on mountain roads with little or no public transport.
What is the best time to visit Montenegro?
May, June and September are the best months to visit Montenegro. The weather is warm, the sea is swimmable and it’s far less crowded than in July and August.
Which airport is best for a Montenegro road trip?
Podgorica is best if you start in the mountains, and Tivat is closest to the Bay of Kotor and Budva. Dubrovnik in Croatia is also an option, about 1h30 from the Bay of Kotor.
What currency is used in Montenegro?
Montenegro uses the euro, even though it isn’t a member of the European Union.
Is Montenegro expensive?
Montenegro is generally cheaper than Croatia or the Greek islands, especially outside July and August. Local konobas and bakeries are good value, while the most popular coastal towns are pricier in peak season.
Final Thoughts
Montenegro completely won me over, twice. In one week I swam in a glacial lake, stood above Europe’s deepest canyon, drank wine that had been aged under the sea, and watched the sun set behind Sveti Stefan. For such a small country, it’s incredibly varied, and it still feels wonderfully undiscovered.
Hire a car, give yourself at least a week, and don’t skip the mountains. They were my favourite part.
Short on time, or want more ideas? Here are the 10 best things to do in Montenegro.
Have you been to Montenegro, or is it on your list? Tell me in the comments. And for more travel inspiration, come and say hi on Instagram and TikTok. Let’s collect moments, not things! ✨
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